"Singapore sacrificed its mangroves and reefs for development," says , a nature guide who has led walks here for eight years. "Chek Jawa is our apology letter to nature. And Ubin is the last chapter." The Ticking Clock The question every visitor eventually asks is: How long will this last?
Today, at low tide, visitors walk on a wooden boardwalk over a living carpet of starfish, fiddler crabs waving their single giant claw, and mudskippers that look like fish attempting to evolve into amphibians. It is one of the few places on the planet where you can see a coastal ecosystem that has remained virtually untouched for a millennium. singapore pulau ubin
"People ask me why I don't move to the mainland," he says, spitting a stream of red betel nut juice onto the dirt. "I say: Why would I? My son is in a HDB flat. He locks his door. He doesn't know his neighbour. Here, my door is always open. The jungle is my air-conditioner." Today, at low tide, visitors walk on a
— The ferry ride takes less than ten minutes, but it feels like a journey back half a century. As the sleek skyline of Marina Bay shrinks into a hazy mirage behind you, the air changes. The diesel fumes of the bumboats mix with the scent of salt and damp earth. Ahead, a green hulk rises from the strait: Pulau Ubin, Singapore’s forgotten island. "I say: Why would I
Meet , 74, a retired fisherman whose family has lived on Ubin for four generations. He sits on the porch of his wooden house, repairing a shrimp net.
For now, however, the island endures. As dusk falls, the shophouses in Ubin Village light up with kerosene lamps. A group of backpackers from Europe share a table of ikan bakar (grilled fish) and coconut water. A Chinese uncle plays a scratchy Hokkien ballad on a transistor radio. A hornbill—black and yellow, prehistoric-looking—perches on a power line, watching.